Chris C Vectra supercharger build

you would be best off getting the LSJ throttle body and swapping the pins around. the standard one will work but will restrict the power a little.
not that it will be a bad thing as you are running a 3" pulley so have potential to get into rod breaking power levels. mine was still climbing at 283 with a 3.1 pulley
before i went forged and dropped the cr right down.
good work so far though

you would be best off getting the LSJ throttle body and swapping the pins around. the standard one will work but will restrict the power a little.
not that it will be a bad thing as you are running a 3" pulley so have potential to get into rod breaking power levels. mine was still climbing at 283 with a 3.1 pulley
before i went forged and dropped the cr right down.
good work so far though

i am happy to be abit restricted for the moment but i will have a look for a LSJ TB if is the right way of doing it

also here is a pic of the other sensor i have it was in the boot

Water pipe connectors ordered and some other bits so should have something to go at the weekend [emoji106]

so this is the way i am going with water pipe have added the Water pipe connectors and use 2 the same just cut to size

well here a bit of a update, the build is moved along the adapter form the US fit the charger to the standard Tb nicely
so got 99% of the stuff back in place and gave it a go


so i bit the bullet and put her life support and turned her over to see if it would fire and the good news it did
sound rough as a bag of spanners but it ran which is all i want to hear for the moment

right new update
new ecu is fitted and working great the engine now dose not sound like a bag of spanners Cheers to Adam
but i am concerned that they is some noise coming from the supercharger and it may be a bearing so thing it might be worth do a change
i did but is secondhand

so there is acouple of kits on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eaton-Sup...855668?hash=item4653377b34:g:b4sAAOSwu4BV6ysY

unless you guys can reconmend somewhere better

hard to tell from a video.
could even be a bearing on belt drive?
mine made a horrible rumble when it failed. only did a few hundred miles, BMW cheap parts for you

Glad the cars running better now The kit in the link looks like the one I used on mine, I've yet to fit the needle bearings though.

i got my spares direct from zzp think ive even got 2 bottles of the proper gm poe oil in the batcave
there is a certain amount of back lash at idle "clunking" if you pull the pipe of the bypass and put your finger on the hole the load is increase on the rotors and the noise will stop
the rear needles and the snout bearings are all that can be successfully changed if you try and do the rotor pack bearings it wont work out to well as the case breaks when the bearings are removed

good job on the install tho

Thanks for the advise evocarlos will try that

Next question I have is about power
I want to place the battery in the boot what is the correct way to cable this and what cable and parts will I need likefuses etc etc

for my stereo's i have used 0 gauge wire, you could get away with 2 gauge as the only high current you will pull is on start up and that just a few seconds.
unless you are running a sound system with large/multiple amps? then use 0 gauge.
i've run cables through the inside of the car and drilled holes in the bulk head with gland nuts to seal/hold cables.
300amp fuse should be enough.
most people mount battery where air box was on the vectra sc builds. or even seen them inside the air box. cheaper and easier to do.

Bmw's run the battery's in the boot and you can find the kits on eBay

Right I have taken the BMW style option and run a single wire the the rear and then gone straight the the chassis

Turn over last night and all seems good

Tomorrow it goes in for a MOT let's see how that goes

should be fine unless you plan on big sound system in the future then you may need a second wire for earth?
you driven it yet?

Yes took it round the block tonight
Not gone fast enough to feel the difference yet

But new issue tonight the fan is not kicking in any ideas

Has the earth gone back onto the chassis leg on the front passenger side?

what map do you have on ecu? some had a different pin out for cooling fan switch?
check all earths and relays.

If your taking about the two ring earths yes there where put back onto the chassis
I will double check them

MOT passed

Now to find out about this fan