Project Freeze My engine Off (SAAB B207R Supercharged)

cleaned up a saab fuel rail (green viton seals) and blocks fitted right not a bodge like my old one


new 630cc dekas fitted with lube


extended the exciter wire on the alternator and found a plug that fits


going back together


belts a better fit now the alternator is bolted direct to the block


setting up the injectors in 13 seconds lol


done


and its done well sort of


getting the charging lamp on even tho ive got 14v trying to work out what the problem is im guessing the L pin on the new alternator goes to gnd when running causing the lamp to come on

lamp on


only 6v to the exciter wire


fixed it


the relay for the charger cooler pump was wired to the exciter wire and i guess it was the diode in the relay causing the problem its rewired now

new alternator make the davies craig water pump controller go into error mode it dont like more than 14.2v
been p**sing me off since i fitted the alternator


today it got replaced with the new style that's supportive of 17.5v before overvoltage error
i personlly feel that the new one has much better funcion than the old one the fan test at keyon has gone big plus
it has a warning alarm and when i lock the car and the windows shut the fan dont come on like the old one from the voltage drop
the cooldown cycle is 3mins but works to reduce the system temp 10c before shutting down that dont take that long tbf


the plx wideband has surprised me today its been in over a year and the sensor health is at 100% after a trip to demon tweaks it normally show 70%


new toys for the weekend a present to myself for another year older

happy birthday Carl

factory fan removed


fan resistor swapped over to the spal fan


nice and roomy now


all pipes clear


and evans coolant in

rad and fan info have to say i measured the rad at demon tweeks and then just asked for the 14" it fits so well

whoopsie


need a new rad to lol

at least you can fix it though

Oh no !

Cracked piston bore? Ouchhhh how the hell you manage that?? Keep going with the good work bud, don't fancy coming to supercharge or turbo my 1.8 do ya lol

So going on past expectations Carl, this should be fixed by the end of next week, lol. Not good though buddy, any idea how it occurred?

Gutted for you, was this a z22se block?

New this site must say Carl terrific job by the way shame that this has happened.

Sorry to hear bud

What caused the crack and why did the radiator swell so much?

trying for more power knowing Carl

im feeling for you here carlos
keep your chin up and get back on the wagon

im about to start playing with water injection my self so if you can give any detail it would be appreciated or even a little note here to help others out and having similar issues

http://www.vx220.org.uk/forums/topic/142539-water-injection/

HarleyPete said:

So going on past expectations Carl, this should be fixed by the end of next week, lol. Not good though buddy, any idea how it occurred?

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see lower down

dewismotorsport said:

Gutted for you, was this a z22se block?

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no this was the stock 2011 b207r block

milo said:

Sorry to hear bud

What caused the crack and why did the radiator swell so much?

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not sure on the crack but the head gaskets been on its way out for a while and the rads expanded for when the bore cracked and the whole cooling loop got 6bar of pressure from the piston even with the crack the pressure was only down 50%

vocky said:

trying for more power knowing Carl

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as always

chill said:

im feeling for you here carlos
keep your chin up and get back on the wagon

im about to start playing with water injection my self so if you can give any detail it would be appreciated or even a little note here to help others out and having similar issues

http://www.vx220.org.uk/forums/topic/142539-water-injection/

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i was advised to fit a small dot1 jet before the rotors and the larger dot3 jet in the inlet after the rotors the system was in and running but had bog down at low rpm(need variable pump controller) and the issue of a poor one way valve at idle (full vac) the valve was passing and emptying the bottle as i was driving at that point i capped the line and stopped filling the bottle i need to look at a solenoid as the vac is to much for the one way valve the car would be mapped then just use a 50/50 mix to combat iat's i dont want to have to rely on the bottle being kept full if its mapped to meth the bottle dont stay full for long it used 3/4 of a tank in a 60mile drive


had a week away at the sea side to clear my head and focus on the plan ahead


yep got back 2hours later


out again


an idea strikes like a lightning bolt


some work later


6mm groove cut and bar tapped in place


all in time to clean the block


much jet washing later and a bit of sand blasting its came out well for an 80k block




tfr and water got the brown oil stains off


front side was still a bit ruff


oil jets out mains in


lick of paint to the block and hone the bores




crank in and sealant applied


replaced the piston with the broken ring and the mark from the crack


paint looks good


honing tool did well its put the crosshatch back


all 4 in and oiled up waiting for the next step

Oh I thought the B207 blocks were meant to be good for about 400bhp

Be interested to see how the inserts last

Good to see its going back together already

dewismotorsport said:

Oh I thought the B207 blocks were meant to be good for about 400bhp

Be interested to see how the inserts last

Good to see its going back together already

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thats what i thought to hence not pegging this block in the 1st place like the original
the alloy bar should stay fast i gant go anywhere its locked in and below the surface

As usual great work Carl !